DOWNTOWN. Evoking classic steakhouses of yore, Al's offers dark wood decor, a tuxedo-clad waitstaff, the wafting fragrance of cigar smoke, a nautical-themed bar, and tableside preparations. There are no printed menus; waiters recite dinner options, and the kitchen practically invites special requests. Beef, duck, veal, lamb, lobster, fish, chicken, and pasta are prepared in a seemingly endless list of variations. Try a crab-stuffed filet or lamb Ettinger for something unusual. For a sweet ending, it's hard to go wrong with luscious bananas Foster.

WEBSTER GROVES. Classic old favorites are updated and enlivened at this colorful and laid-back restaurant. Meatloaf is made with veal instead of hamburger and blended with red peppers, spinach, and mushrooms. Piquant tomato gravy replaces the traditional ketchup. Creamed spinach is made more flavorful with smoked Gouda cheese, the taste of mashed potatoes is heightened with roasted garlic. Desserts feature the irresistible caramel pecan apple pie made with tangy Granny Smith apples.

Exposed brick walls and lace curtains contribute to the warm and comforting atmosphere of this Central West End restaurant. Order salads, pasta, pizzas, or one of the heartier entrees like barbecued spice salmon or Beef Wellington. Great Sunday brunch too. Reservations are recommended.

Café Eau features a casual, relaxed atmosphere with dark woodwork and neutral tones. The eclectic American menu features such fare as Thai-basil tuna tartare with chili-lime dressing. Styled in rich Moroccan tones, Eau Bistro features a paprika-colored pressed metal ceiling and light fixtures created with parchment paper. This menu leans heavily toward seafood and may include Sushiko wood-roasted Chilean sea bass on peppery mustard greens with tamari-citrus vinaigrette. The eclectic Sunday brunch at Eau Bistro is quite popular. Reservations are recommended.

DOWNTOWN. Soft lights and gentle background music effect a pleasingly refined atmosphere at this steakhouse. Diners are both hotel guests and St. Louisians, a telling indicator of the cuisine's quality. Unexpected appetizers please the palate, and potato skins topped with provolone, prosciutto, and scallions; frog legs in garlic butter; and colossal toasted ravioli are practically meals in themselves. Filet mignon, New York strip, porterhouse, and rib-eye steaks form the core of the menu, while seafood, chicken, and lamb play supporting roles. Entrees arrive with a choice of potato and a house salad; lobster tail can be easily added.